At Dries Van Noten, Forget Video: The Fashion Photograph Still Has Plenty To Say



Nearly a 12 months in the past, Marc Jacobs confirmed what I then described as the first post-Instagram fashion show. It was a dwell dance efficiency on the Park Avenue Armory, choreographed by Karole Armitage right into a vibrant chaos. Crucially, it was unattainable to absorb solely by the Instagram pictures and movies posted by the attendees. You actually did should be there. The ensuing runway pictures, messy and unfocused, appeared alive and suave. After spending so lengthy courting your entire world, trend appeared prepared to show again in on itself, talking as an alternative to small teams of connoisseurs and diehards who have been as fluent in McQueen’s work in Givenchy and Jacobs’s at Vuitton as they have been in these homes’ present output.

The pandemic changed that introspection with a a lot bigger existential query: what are all these designers doing in any respect? The runway is on pause, and in its stead a complete new medium has allegedly taken its place: video. Fashion designers have develop into content material creators. Still, it’s been a 12 months, and have we seen any actually nice trend movies? Perhaps Martine Rose’s digital high-rise in January featuring Drake hanging at the studio and Big Youth jamming out, or Marine Serre’s Amor Fati within the fall. However most movies don’t fairly resonate. I requested Steff Yotka, Vogue Runway’s trend information editor, what she thought, and she or he informed me, “Nick Knight has talked about how we’re in the nascent stages of fashion film—and even the beginnings of fashion photography. And as usual, he’s totally right! As an industry, fashion has a tendency to get way ahead of itself, constantly running at the future while ignoring the present.” In different phrases, we aren’t fairly prepared for Hollywood.

Courtesy of Casper Sejersen for Dries van Noten
Courtesy of Casper Sejersen for Dries van Noten

Which means one thing else is the predominant mode of our second: the style {photograph}. The Dries Van Noten present that debuted on Wednesday satisfied me of it. He did make a video—and a very wonderful one, really. At just below than seven minutes, it featured dancers and fashions grooving to Huge Assault with bizarre naturalness, turning the acts of falling, posing, and even taking off and placing on garments into disturbing trancelike actions. A number of of the dancers have been from Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker’s Rosas dance firm (together with De Keersmaeker herself), which is understood for turning vernacular gestures into choreography. This dancing was like an aggressive, grunge voguing, or possibly a gnarlier interpretation of the moments between the large poses that voguing has made iconic. It felt like a video about pictures, or made for it.

The accompanying lookbook is without doubt one of the most visually hanging of the season—which is probably sudden. Van Noten is in an attention-grabbing place. That’s true partly as a result of he was one of many few individuals to actually query the style system over the past 12 months, but in addition, merely, due to his garments. He has at all times been the king of prints, and now he’s pulled again, over the previous two seasons, to one thing nearly stark. However this present demonstrated the dynamism of the garments and a readability about the place Van Noten stands: his shoppers, who’ve at all times thought like collectors, have already got prints and jacquards and paisley velvets galore. Over the previous few weeks, I’ve discovered myself pulling out my exuberant neon and purple Dries coach’s blouson, and my sparkly black cherry blossom jacket with a mandarin collar, as prompt temper boosters to put on over sweatpants and tees. What I need now could be the best gabardine swimsuit pants to put on with them—which is precisely what he’s now delivering.

Courtesy of Casper Sejersen for Dries van Noten


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